Tomato-forward chicken fricase is warm and hearty

By CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL

It may have a French-sounding name, but this homey, hearty, tomato-forward chicken braise, made with sofrito as its base and with golden rum as part of the cooking liquid, is Caribbean in essence and flavor.

In this recipe from our cookbook “ Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,” we adapted San Juan chef Jose Santaella’s recipe from his book “Cocina Tropical.” Instead of a whole cut-up chicken, we use only bone-in thighs, as dark meat stands up better to braising than more delicate breast meat.

We also simmer the potatoes and carrots for about 10 minutes in a little water, giving the root vegetables a head start on cooking before the tomatoes, wine and rum are introduced. If added raw to an acidic liquid, the vegetables require extended cooking to fully tenderize. You will need 1 cup of sofrito for this recipe, so be sure to cook up a batch in advance.

The braising liquid is quite acidic. Be sure to use a nonreactive pot, such as stainless steel or enamel-coated cast iron, so the metal does not react to the acidity and cause “off” flavors. After returning the browned chicken to the Dutch oven, cover the pot only partially. A little evaporation is desirable so the braise isn’t too watery. Serve with rice and, if you’re so inclined, with fried sweet plantains.

Chicken Fricase with Tomatoes, Potatoes and Carrots

Start to finish: 1¼ hours (30 minutes active) Servings: 4 to 6

Ingredients: 1 tablespoon dried oregano Kosher salt and ground black pepper 2½ pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, trimmed 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup sofrito ½ cup pitted green olives 4 bay leaves 1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces 1 pound carrots, peeled and sliced ¼ inch thick on the diagonal 14½-ounce can crushed tomatoes (1½ cups) 6-ounce can tomato paste 1 cup dry white wine ½ cup golden rum Chopped fresh cilantro, to serve Directions: In a small bowl, stir together the oregano and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Season the chicken on all sides with the mixture. In a large Dutch oven over medium-high, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the chicken and cook, turning once or twice, until browned on both sides, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a large plate; set aside.

Add the sofrito to the pot along with the olives and bay; cook, stirring, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the potatoes, carrots, 2 cups water and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer, then cover and simmer until the vegetables are tender-crisp, about 10 minutes. Add the crushed tomatoes to the pot along with the tomato paste, wine and rum; stir to combine. Return the chicken to the pot, nestling the pieces into the mixture, then add the accumulated juices. Return to a simmer, cover partially and cook, stirring once or twice, until the vegetables are tender and a skewer inserted into the chicken meets no resistance, 40 to 45 minutes.

Remove the pot from the heat, then remove and discard the bay. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with cilantro.

Sofrito

Start to finish: 30 minutes Makes about 2 cups

Ingredients:

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped 10 medium garlic cloves, minced 1 tablespoon tomato paste ¼ cup finely chopped smoked ham 8 ounces ripe tomatoes, cored and chopped 1 large cubanelle pepper or 1 medium red, yellow or orange bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and chopped 3 tablespoons drained capers 2 bay leaves 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon annatto oil (optional)

Directions: In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add the onions and cook, stirring often, until beginning to brown, 2 to 4 minutes.

Add the garlic and tomato paste; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the ham and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute.

Add the tomatoes, pepper, capers, bay, oregano and annatto oil (if using). Cook, stirring often, until the mixture begins to stick to the pan, 6 to 8 minutes; reduce the heat if it begins to brown. Transfer to a small bowl.