Colorado alpinist dies challenging unclimbed face of Himalayan peak

A Colorado mountain climber fell to his death while descending the Jannu East peak in Nepal this month, during a third attempt at establishing a route on the peak’s north face.

A tribute to Michael Gardner published by the American Alpine Club said the 32-year-old was widely respected among his fellow alpinists for his “empathy, enthusiasm, dedication to the craft of climbing, pure motivations and lack of ego.”

“His quiet pursuit of the mountains on his own terms means his legacy is not flashy but found in traces and in the background — he was climbing and skiing for the sake of the craft, not for recognition,” the organization wrote.

Gardner was born in Ridgway and spent his childhood shadowing his father, George, on climbing expeditions around the world, according to Arc’teryx, an outdoor clothing brand that sponsored Gardner and announced his death on social media Oct. 8.

The company’s post described Gardner as a consummate outdoorsman and athlete who enjoyed skateboarding and skiing in addition to his lifelong passion of mountain climbing.

Gardner and longtime climbing partner Sam Hennessey racked up accomplishments in places such as the Denali and Grand Teton national parks, setting records on difficult routes and establishing new paths up some of the country’s most rugged peaks.

On Oct. 7, Gardner and Hennessey were attempting the north face of Jannu East, also known as Kumbhakarna East, when Gardner fell during their descent. Hennessey returned from the climb.

Gardner’s surviving family includes his mother, Colleen, and sister, Megan, according to Climbing Magazine. The magazine said the October climb marked Gardner and Hennessey’s fourth time visiting Jannu East and was their third try at the north face.

Gardner’s father died from a fall in Grand Teton when Gardner was 16 years old.

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